How to care for your kitten
Kittens are not hard to look after but they do have some special requirements.
What do I feed a kitten?
Kittens usually start eating solid food at around 4 weeks of age but still suckle on their mother. Ready made cat foods that can be bought in the supermarket usually contain a balanced diet for your cat or kitten. There are many brands to choose from and many manufacturers make specific kitten food. Cat food can be bought in cans, rolls, packets etc. Choosing premium brands is not always necessary but you can be assured of total cat nutrition if you stick to the big name brands. Check the packaging for wording such as 'Total nutritional requirements for cats and kittens'. Supplement your kitten's diet with chopped or minced fresh meat, fish or chicken but remember fresh meat or fish alone does not supply your kitten with all the nutrients it needs. Give you kitten a variety of foods changing what you give him regularly. Kittens can become very bored with same food day in day out and they may refuse to eat. It also helps guard against raising a fussy eater.
Throw away uneaten food. Don't put it back in the fridge to give the kitten later as it could be contaminated by bacteria.
Don't feed your kitten dog food as the nutritional requirements of dogs and cats are very different. For further information read this article: Cats are different, Kittens can begin eating dry cat food from an early age and most find it quite enjoyable. There are supermarket brands and there are brands that are only available from your vet or pet food store. The brands that are available from the vets are premium brands such as Hills and Eukanuba (which are scientifically formulated to meet recommendations of veterinarians and nutritionists.)Dry food can be left down for kittens to graze on throughout the day and night.
Water
Your kitten needs fresh water available at all times. Try not to use plastic bowls as they tip over easily. A heavy china, pottery or porcelain dish is preferable.
Bengals love water, so why not put some water in the bath tub, not to deep,
add some ping pong balls, rubber ducks etc and have some fun!!
Should I give my kitten milk?
'DO NOT' give cats or kittens cow's milk as many kittens are lactose intolerant and it can cause tummy upsets and severe diarrhea.
Specially formulated milk for cats and kittens is available from your supermarket.
You certainly don't want your kitten to have diarrhea when you are trying to toilet train it.
Giving your kitten milk can cause upset tummies, cramps and severe diarrhea. Diarrhea can be deadly to kittens because it dehydrates their little bodies very quickly.Cats and kittens do not need to drink milk and can live their entire lives without having one lap of milk. Water is all they will ever need. If you really want to give them milk then you can purchase special kitten milk which is lactose free from your pet food store, vets or supermarket but they really don't need it.Most cats are lactose intolerant because they lack the enzyme 'lactase' which helps them digest lactose and take it into their blood stream. Lactose is the sugar found in milk. As undigested lactose passes through the kitten's digestive system it draws water from the intestines. Lactose cannot pass easily through the intestinal wall into the bloodstream, so it remains in the intestines. Soon, gut bacteria invade and fermentation sets in causing large amounts of gas to form. The result is pain and diarrhea for your kitten.Very young kittens and indeed all mammals produce the enzyme lactase when suckling from their mother but the ability to produce the enzyme diminishes after weaning
Felix or Whiskas Milk is specially formulated for cats to offer a healthier alternative to cows milk. Not all cats are able to properly digest regular cows milk and thats why Felix or whiskas lactose reduced formula provides your cat with a tasty, healthier replacement which is also lower in fat.
However, give sparingly and not on a day to day basis, use only as a treat, I got some but neither of my cats would take it.
How often do I feed a new kitten?
Young kittens are like babies, they need to be fed several times a day up. Kittens younger than 6 weeks should still be with their mother and many breeders do not let kittens go to new homes until they are 10 -12 weeks old.
As a rule of thumb kittens aged between 6 weeks and 12 weeks need four or more meals a day.
Their stomachs are very small and they can't eat a lot at a time.
At about 12 weeks they should be fed three times a day and by the time they reach 6 months they can then go on to twice daily feeding.
Of course the frequency of feeding depends on many factors including the lifestyle of the owner. A working owner will not be able to feed the kitten at such regular intervals as a stay at home carer and it is not always possible to leave food out for a kitten for a variety of reasons. One reason could be because of climate.
In hot summer months, it's not possible to leave moist cat food out all day as it will spoil and attract flies (which turn into magets).
Ants are also a problem in some areas. Another reason could be that there may be other pets who will eat the food that was left out for the kitten.
For the owner who is not at home all day there are solutions to work around these problems such as,
leaving dry food out on a permanent basis so the kitten can 'graze' as he wishes throughout the day.
If a pet dog is likely to gobble the kitty food put it in a room such as bathroom or laundry with a child gate across.
The kitten can get through the gate but the dog cannot.
Where will my kitten sleep?
They find the most funniest positions to fall asleep!
You must provide your kitten with warmth. This is especially important in cold climates. Your kitten is used to snuggling up to his mother and litter mates for comfort and warmth. There are many different cat beds available in all forms and sizes and in a huge range of prices. You don't have to spend a lot of money on a bed as your kitten will be perfectly happy in a cardboard box lined with a blanket, baby quilt or lambs wool cover. The important thing is that he has a warm place to sleep and cuddle up in. If the weather is really cold put a hot water bottle under his blanket. Try to make your kitten's bed snug. Cats and kittens love to curl up in snug areas.
Kittens are heat seekers and you are a good source of heat for them. That is why they love to curl up on your lap and they will seek you out in your bed not only for company but for warmth, no joke! Max is often in my daughters bed curled up fast asleep in the duvet.
If you don't want your cat sleeping in your bed for the rest of it's life, it is best to let your kitten know what you expect from him from the beginning.
Therefore keep the door closed. Put his bed in a quiet place away from busy areas and encourage him to sleep there and close your bedroom door when you go to bed.
On the other hand you may like your kitten to sleep with you and that's OK as long as you realise that he will probably share your bed for life. Cats are well known for their bed hogging abilities. They can have you clinging to the outer edge of your bed while they are comfortably sprawled out, full length occupying nine tenths of it. With a cat sharing your bed you may have no need for an alarm clock as they will diligently take over the responsibility of waking you in the morning with a friendly purr in your ear or a pat of a paw to your face. Of course, like all cats, they have their own best interests at heart and by waking you they hope to secure an early breakfast.
Most Bengals just sleep on you.
Should I get one kitten or two?
A kitten is a great pet and a wonderful source of endless companionship and entertainment for his owners. Two kittens double the pleasure of kitten ownership. They will romp and play together supplying you with hours of entertainment. It also takes the pressure off you having to keep up with their sometimes demanding constant playtime. When they are tired they will curl up and sleep together. If you work full time having two kittens keeping each other company can alleviate some of the guilt you feel by leaving them alone at home all day. Having two kittens also solves bedtime problems if you don't want to share your bed with them. They are more likely to be happy to snuggle up together in their own bed rather than yours. Kittens brought up together usually form a lifelong bond and as adults will enjoy each other's company.
Having said how wonderful it is to own two kittens it is just as acceptable to own just one. Your kitten will bond with you and offer you a life time of pleasure. Cats are solitary creatures by nature and do not crave companionship of other cats.
In fact it can be very difficult to introduce a new kitten into a household where an existing cat has already established itself.
Introducing new kittens to other cats
So, you read somewhere that introducing a new kitten into your home could be great for your existing cat, for companionship.
And you remember how much fun your cat was when she was a new kitten, and you would love to re-live those days.
It is generally thought that cats thrive better with the company of another feline, especially cats confined indoors.
But before you rush off to your local cat shelter or breeder, here are a few tips to make bringing home a new kitten as stress free as possible.
Choose a time when your home is not too busy and you will have time to devote to your new kitty and your existing cat,
avoid holidays, for example, or other times when friends and family are likely to visit.
Before bringing home the new kitten, take her to your veterinarian to get her checked and vaccinated,
kittens have weak immune systems and are likely to pick up something at the shelter or cattery.
Consider adopting a cat of the opposite sex to your existing cat, this will avoid same sex rivalry and associated problems.
For a number of obvious reasons all your cats MUST be spayed/neutered.
If possible arrange to bath your new kitten at a friends house before you take it home, this will neutralize kitty's odor,
and go some way to prevent unsettling your cat.
A short isolation period is necessary when introducing a new kitten. It would be ideal to have a separate room for the new kitten,
your new little pet will need her own litter box, and food and water bowl.
Some kittens will hide out under furniture for some days,( I know as my Misha did), they can hide in the smallest of places and gaps
you would not think of looking in, my Misha was found in the cupboard of the fish tank behind the pump, she was really cozy in there,
the more adventurous ones will be eager to explore their new home almost straight away,
Do not try and force kitty to leave the room, you will know when she is ready.
Allow your new kitten to explore around your home while your older cat is in another room.
Make the introduction, slowly, bit by bit, it is a good idea to let your existing cat sniff your new kitten's blanket a few times before they actually meet.
Make the initial periods of contact short. Gradually increase the time that they spend together as they get used to one another.
It is not unusual for there to be a few spats in these first meetings, so do not leave them alone together until they get on.
If a fight does break out, distract the combatants and get them into separate rooms as soon as possible, never punish either cat.
The process of introducing a new kitten to an older cat, can often be relatively stress free and need not be full of problems.
The key is in making the introduction slowly, and perhaps the best tip of all is to give your older cat just as much attention and affection as you give the newcomer.
Before you know it you will have two cats that thrive on each others company.
Litter Box Training.
How to house train your kitten
Teaching your kitten to use a litter box is not difficult. Cats are instinctively clean and fastidious and toilet training your kitten to use a kitty litter box or to toilet outside is relatively simple.
There are a few basic requirements such as a litter box and some kitty litter and a little or a lot of time and patience.
There are many different types of litter boxes but basically you need a litter-box that gives your kitten plenty of room to move around in and
also it must have sides that are low enough for your kitten to climb over. I have new owners ring me with, they wont use the toilet, is it open topped and low enough for them to get in,
if you buy a large tray with hood and a door, it may not be able to get in it, therefore it will stress and look for somewhere else to go.
When you are with your kitten remember, it is in a new home, things are not where they are in my home, they know which toilets to use and where, they are taught by mum when they are weeks old, as the tray is open topped and close by, yes there is accidents here, I clean thouroughly with raw dettol, and If there is an area they go to a lot,
I put a tray there on top and 9 out of 10 times they will go there and use the tray, they like it normally in a corner, where its private.
I do use lots of different litter trays, small open topped, hodded open door, hooded no door, a corner tray, but you may have an odd accident with one kitten,
where I have several or more at atime, so I have to accomodate for different preferences and try to cover all aspects of toilet training.
Also, another tip if they keep going to a certain place you can clean totally with raw detol and place tinfoil there, as most cats do not like tin foil.
Do not clean with bleach that will make the aroma stronger you need to use a Antiseptic or bacterial wash.
I have even had a kitten who did not like the tray and the litter, so I left one tray with nothing in it and they are fine and use it,
it is easy just put contents down the toilet, and clean tray, I think we would all prefer that they use the human toilet, well Max here does but when outside he uses a tray or his run.
Remember when you get them home make sure a tray is made up, I know your excited to have this new addition and want to play and spoil it,
however, before doing this, put them in the toilet, so they know where it is and not have to hunt for somewhere to go, thus confusing the kitten will only make matters worse.
If you use a different litter this may also confuse the kitten, try using what the breeder uses then little by little add the new litter to what you want them to use will be easier,
I use woodchip litter as you can imagine I have to find a litter that price wise and use wise can accomodate all cats and kittens in my home
Also, if you go to a' large pet store'!!! they will more than likely reommend the priciest one if you ask them, remember they are their to sell.
Kitty Litter
There are many commercial Cat Litters available and you should experiment and use what works best for you and your cat.
Avoid scented litters. People may like the smell of scented kitty litter but many cats and kittens do not.
You will have to strike a happy medium between the litter you prefer to use and the litter the kitten prefers to use.
If you are changing litter, do it slowly mixed in so the cat can get used to it.
The one I use is woodchips which are brillliant as it leaves a pine aroma. (I can supply some litter to settle them in, used and fresh)
Also avoid using clay clumping litter for young kittens as it can be dangerous, causing intestinal blockages if accidentally ingested.
How to litter train your kitten
Firstly, do not allow your new kitten full run of the house. Try to contain him to the room you spend the most time in so you can watch him most of the time.
Close all bedroom doors and barricade other areas that do not have doors.
Cats are fastidious animals and by instinct they prefer to bury their urine and faeces.
Watch your kitten carefully and if you see signs that he is about to go pee or poop, gently pick him up without a fuss and without scaring him place him in the litter box.
Take one of his paws and scratch the litter with it. Because he can dig in the litter his natural instincts should take over.
If the kitten uses the litter box give him lots of praise. If he doesn't use it don't force the issue.
You must never use a raised voice or make him afraid of the litter tray in any way.
Once your kitten has used the litter he leaves the smell of cat urine which will encourage him to come back next time.
If he continues to have accidents try transferring some urine or faeces to the litter box so that the smell of it encourages him to use the litter.Make sure the litter box is always clean.
Cats and kittens do not like using heavily soiled litter boxes. Scoop out the hard bits frequently and change the litter daily or as it is a tiny kitten two times a week, or when you think it needs to be cleaned.
Thoroughly wash litter boxes once or ntwice a week a week with a kitten.
What are the signs kitty needs to toilet?
One of the signs that a kitten needs to eliminate is that he will begin scratching at the floor. He will often go to a corner, behind a couch or a quiet area. Be observant and watch your kitten's behaviour. Often a hurried departure from a game will indicate that he is hurrying off for a toilet break. When they are older you never know maybe you too could train them to use the actual house toilet!!!
Kittens and Rough Play
Kittens play aggressively because that's what comes naturally to them. Many people get a kitten believing that they are sweet cuddly little pets but be aware they have their moments. Kittens can be all teeth and claws! You have to remember that kittens have an instinct to play rough. It is part of a normal kitten's development to play aggressively because they are learning the predatory skills that a cat in the wild would need to know for survival. On a reassuring note, most kittens grow out of the aggressive stage and grow into adorable, sweet natured cats who would never dream of biting or scratching you.
Read more about aggressive kittens who bite and scratch
Vaccinations
Unless properly vaccinated, your cat runs the risk of contracting one of several, possibly fatal, infectious diseases. These include Infectious Enteritis (Panleucopenia), Leukaemia and ‘Cat Flu’ (Infectious Respiratory Disease).
The vaccination regime can vary in different vets so ask your vet about the right schedule for your kitten.
Parasites - Worms and Fleas
You need to keep your kitten free from worms and fleas. Fleas can make your pet very uncomfortable and a heavy infestation of fleas can kill a small kitten.
Parasitic worms such as tapeworm, roundworm and hookworms can make your kitten ill with symptoms such as weight loss, diarrhea, vomiting,
loss of appetite, poor coat condition and a pot bellied appearance. Use a product from your vet, we use a 6 in one so covers everything in one go wioth a dropper for the back of the neck.
How often do I worm my kitten?
Kittens 6 to 16 weeks of age should be wormed every three weeks.
From 4 months onward cats and kittens should be wormed every 3 months.
Usually you will need to treat kittens every two months from 12 weeks to 1 year. From then on, worm every three to six months. Ask at your vets for suitable worming medication. Usually a consultation isn't necessary and they will sell worming medicine to you over the counter and pet stores also sell warning treatments. Worming medicine comes in paste, top spot or tablet form.
Problems with fleas
Fleas can be a problem in especially in warm humid areas.
As soon as you bring your kitten home you should deal with any flea treatments applied every month.
If you don't address the issue immediately you could soon have a flea infestation on your pets and in your house.
I personally use a flea zapper which is an electronic comb and does not hurt the kittens/cats, and Frontline Spray.
Grooming your kitten
Cats will groom themselves or if you have 2 they can groom each other, sometimes they even groom the dog if you have one.
However, short-hair kittens require little more than a once a week brushing. Use a brush with soft bristles that will not harm the kitten's skin.
Use soft gentle strokes and make it enjoyable for the kitten. Longhair cats require a daily combing to avoid matting of the fur.
For this, I use a comb with wide-teeth that is specially designed for cats & a big soft towel! why a towel?
well claws can be like razor blades if not trimmed, therefore, I wrap the older cats in a towel to help avoid those claws, I do usually clip them at the same time.
Brushing your cat's fur on a regular basis will help keep their coat shiny and healthy, and will also give the owner and the pet some bonding time together.
Hairballs
There's nothing quite like the glorious feeling of stepping out of your warm bed onto a cold, squishy, slimy hairball!
Perhaps we should feel flattered that our beloved feline companion has left a piece of her/himself as a special gift for us,
but frankly, most of us would rather bond with our cats another way!
Cats can develop hairballs. While an occasional hairball is no cause for alarm,
if your cat is vomiting up a hairball more than once or twice a month,
it's time to think about a plan of action.
Prevention of Hairballs in cats
Prevention, as they say, is worth a pound of cure. Frequent combing is often all it takes to resolve the problem. But brushing won't do.
Brushes tend to slide over the surface of the fur and don't get all the dead hair out. For short haired cats, a fine-toothed flea comb is best.
Longer hair may require a wide-toothed comb, or one with revolving teeth to prevent tearing out the hair.
Many hairball-plagued cats will try to self-medicate by eating grass or plants. The coarse plant fibers will cause the cat to vomit, and hopefully, the irritating hair will come up as well. Not all grass-loving cats have hairballs, however. You need to carefully observe your cat so you can accurately report the situation to your veterinarian.
Fibre is relatively easy to add to the diet. There are a lot of hairball control cat foods and treats out there. How do they work?
The general idea is that the higher fiber content will help hair pass through the gastrointestinal tract,
out the other end, and into the kitty litter box where it belongs.
Many hairball diet foods contain powdered cellulose and other fibers like beet pulp, while hairball treats can contain mineral oil,
a laxative that works much like petroleum jelly products in helping "slide" undigested hair through the intestines.
Many cat lovers who prepare homemade diets for their feline companions say that hairballs are much less of a problem. The cat actually has little, if any, physiological need for fiber, and it does make sense to feed what nature intended the cat to eat: meat, fat, a few organs,
a little bit of vegetable matter — and, of course, hair!
I prefer to just brush the cats often and sometimes give them some fish like sardines or tuna in oil, along with Go-Cat Complete for indoor cats.
So don't despair; with just a little effort, soon it will once again be safe to get out of bed!
Neutering and Spaying
It is strongly recommended that you have your kitten neutered or spayed. Un-castrated male cats will roam, get in fights and spray pungent smelling urine around the place and believe me it smells nasty. They are prone to injuries and abscesses from cat fights incurring veterinary expenses for you.
Female cats can come into season as early as four months of age. Female cats that have not been spayed come into heat every few weeks. When they are in heat they can be very noisy and try to escape at every opportunity. They are at risk of picking up serious life threatening infectious diseases from mating with unknown cats.
I wouldn't mind my cat having kittens,
shall I just let her out while she is in heat?
If you let your female cat out while she is in heat,
you risk her catching a number of diseases,
from contact with any unknown male cats and multiple fathers.
Some of these diseases can cause death. It's not worth the risk.
Spaying or neutering your cat will take it's mind off reproducing and make it a far better, affectionate pet for you.
How long will my cat be in heat?
Oestrus usually last for between 7 to 10 days. And then only stops from a few days to a week if your lucky then they keep going in and out of season frequently,
If a cat calls many times without a pregnancy there are associated health risks.
A intact female cat that has never been bred has a high risk of developing cancer of the reproductive organs or
developing pyometra which is a life threatening infection of the uterus
Pyometra which is then a matter of life or death and a very expensive vet bill into £1000's for a full ovary hysterectomy.
Therefore, it is recommended to have your kitten spay/neutered at 5 or 6 months of age.
How can I prevent my cat coming into heat?
Oestrus can easily be prevented by having your female cat spayed before 6 months of age or at the age your vet recommends.
You must avoid unwanted pregnancies by keeping her inside away from male cats.
It's not too late to take her to the vet to get spayed (de-sexed) although some vets charge more for spaying a cat which is in season.
What are the signs that my female cat is in heat?
Any or all of the signs below may be an indication that your cat is in heat.
• Your cat becomes more affectionate than usual
• Your cat rolls around the floor rubbing up against everything leaving her scent.
• Your cat carries her tail to one side and raises her bottom.
• Your cat becomes very vocal and meows a lot. (This is where the term 'Calling' comes from and they can literally bark like a dog when they get going)
This vocalization can become very noisy with loud yowls day and night. Her voice may become more piercing than usual.
Believe me it can get very loud, with barks and chirping noises and yowling which is piercing.
• Your cat assumes a position with her front quarters on the ground and her bottom pointing in the air.
• Your cat's hind legs may 'tread'
• Your cat licks her vulva area more than usual
• Your cat rubs her face up against you or furniture more often than usual.
• If you pat your cat on her back near her tail your cat will raise her bottom in the air and may begin 'treading' with her hind feet.
• If she is a cat who is usually kept inside she will be desperate to get outside, waiting for any opportunity to escape.
Do only male cats spray?
NO
All cats, male or female, neutered or not, may spray, however, urine marking is most common in un-neutered male cats. It is not usual for female cats to spray, but it can happen if she is in heat and leaving her scent to attract a male cat. It can also be a problem when there is overcrowding of cats in a household. Urine marking is a communication system for cats. Cat urine contains pheromones which are chemical substances that tell other cats certain messages. Spraying is a common component of cat behaviour during the mating season with males and females communicating their availability with their pheromones. The male cat will also mark his territory, letting other male cats know that these are his boundaries and the area belongs to him, females can spray to let males know she is available.
When an intact male sprays urine, it will have the characteristic tom cat smell that is very strong and unmistakably pungent.
Un-neutered male cats will usually start urine spraying behavior once they reach sexual maturity, usually at doors and windows. The age at which a tom cat sexually matures can vary greatly but in general it occurs between 6 and 9 months. Many factors can affect at which age a male cat starts spraying. Male cats in multi-cat households or in close proximity to other cats are more likely to spray at a younger age.
Spraying is territorial and can also be stress related. Castration of males or spaying of females can reduce the cat’s motivation for spraying.
Neutering or spaying a kitten at an early age can prevent spraying problems in the future.
Your vet will advise you on the best age to neuter your kitten.
Note
With all the unwanted cats and kittens that are euthanised in the world today,
there is no need to bring more of them into the world.
Be responsible.
Male cats are usually castrated and females can be spayed at five or six months of age.
Some vets neuter or spay kittens at a much younger age.
Party's and Fireworks
When you think of a pet being fearful of fireworks, the image of a trembling, whining or drooling dog may come to mind, but what about cats? Your cat may also be frightened by fireworks.
It makes sense that the busiest day at the shelters due to dogs and cats who have bolted out of their homes in fear or become disoriented and terrified from the sight, smell and sound of fireworks on Guy Fawkes night.
Also, Diwali the festival of lights which is around the week before Guy Fawkes and of course New Year’s Eve are other popular time for fireworks.
A time that is festive, fun and exciting for most is often terrifying for dogs, cats, horses, other livestock and even wildlife. Unfortunately, the fireworks aren’t always confined to just one day either. Your enthusiastic neighbours may begin the celebration several days in advance and continue for days after.
Before getting into the calming tips, here’s an important safety tip that should be taken care of if you haven’t already: Have your cat microchipped. Even indoor cats should be microchipped in case of an escape outdoors. ID tags on collars are good but they can become separated from the cat. The safest form of identification is the microchip. The information on the registry should also be up-to-date. It’s also a good idea to make sure you have a current picture of your cat. Most cat parents have quite a few current pictures on their phones already but just double-check that you have a clear and sharp picture just in case the unthinkable happens and your cat gets lost.
Here are my tips to help you ease your cat through fireworks fears.
Keep Your Cat Indoors
Even if you normally allow your cat to go outdoors, bring him/her in several days before in case neighbours start celebrating early. Keep in mind that your cat may try to sneak outdoors or may even bolt in terror during loud noises so be mindful of opening and closing exterior doors.
Stay Home if Your Cat is Frightened by Fireworks
Skip the local fireworks celebration and stay home if your cat is frightened. Even if she chooses to hide and not interact with you, it’s safer to be home rather than leave her alone.
Don’t Leave Windows Open
A cat may be able to escape in a panic. Opened windows also allow too much noise in as well as the smell of the fireworks. Cats have very sensitive noses and the burning scent of fireworks can be disturbing.
Close Curtains and Blinds Before Fireworks Begin
This is will help buffer the sound a tiny bit but will also help with unsettling flashes of light.
Provide a Safe Spot for Your Cat
When frightened, most cats seek out hiding places. Create a safe room that has several cozy hiding places in it as well as a litter box and a water bowl. If your cat has a history of being frightened by fireworks or thunderstorms, place her in the room to get settled before all the noise begins. If she’s terrified, create a tunnel to the litter box so she can get there without feeling too exposed. You can use a cat tunnel you already have or make a temporary one out of papers bags or boxs. Cut out the bottoms and tape the bags boxes together to make a long tunnel.
To prevent your cat from hiding under the bed or in the back of the closet, create a cozy hiding place that provides comfort. You can purchase a cave-style bed or you can even make your own by stretching a t-shirt over a box. Position the neck-hole of the shirt over the opening of the box. Place the box on its side and line it with a soft towel or fleece pad. An important reason that I like the homemade bed is that you can use a shirt you’ve worn so it has your comforting scent already on it. Here are video instructions on how to make a simple cat cave:
Play music or put the radio or television or both on to create a noise distraction. Some people use white noise but I prefer music or television, which is a sound the cat normally, associate as a household noise, also my radio is on daily, all day, everyday. Choose music or a television show that is soothing and play it at a comfortable volume. Don’t try to drown out the fireworks by playing very loud music, I just turn the volume up a little more than usual. Classical music is a good choice or download the psychoacoustic music Through a Cat’s Ear. Keep in mind it’s not just the loud bangs that frighten your cat but the whizzing and whistling sounds associated with them as well.
Your cat may want to crawl in your lap and bury her head in the crook of your arm or she may prefer to stay firmly planted in the back of the closet without the desire for any physical connection. Provide the type of comfort she wants. She’s frightened and may find comfort in just being stroked or in simply having you nearby. Comfort him/her the way he/she wants to be comforted and don’t worry about reinforcing any negative behaviour by offering love and comfort to your frightened cat. Just don’t force physical touch on a cat who clearly doesn’t want it. Pay attention to what works with your cat.
Use a Calm Voice and Display Calm Body Language
Your cat is a little emotional sponge and she’ll pick up on the tone of your voice and your physical movements. Be casual as you move around the room and use a calm tone of voice to let her know all is safe in her world.
Your invitation to play may be declined by the cat but try anyway because the game may be enticing enough to distract her. You can use a fishing pole-type toy to try to get your cat to engage in playtime or you can offer a couple of food puzzle toys.
You can set up a pheromone diffuser in the safe room for your cat. The product contains synthetic feline facial pheromones, which are said to have a calming effect, and helps the cat identify with the territory. Some people claim the product works well with their cats and others say it has no effect at all. So it’s basically one of those “it can’t hurt to try” products as long as the cost isn’t a factor for you.
Don’t give your cat one of your own anti-anxiety medications because the result could be disastrous. If your cat has a history of being absolutely terrified at this time of year, talk to your veterinarian about whether a prescription is needed or he/she may recommend an OTC supplement such as Zylkene (works best if started a few days beforehand). Always talk to your veterinarian first before administering any product to your cat.
Some cats are quite curious about new people, but others prefer to hide away until they’re sure everything is safe. If you have a nervous cat, make a ‘safe’ room in a different part of the house full of your cat’s toys, a cosy bed and, if suitable, a litter tray. If possible, try to introduce them to this place and help them get familiar with it a couple of weeks in advance to better calm your cat at the time. Play with them there, using their favourite toys and games, and consider giving your cat treats to create a positive association with the room. They will be much more relaxed if they have a familiar refuge to call their own!
Many party decorations, especially at Christmas and Halloween, can be quite hazardous to your cat as they might be mistaken for things to play with. For example, long trails of fairy lights can look a lot like your cat’s favourite dangle toy. Set up the Christmas tree without decorations until your cat becomes used to its presence, and then keep decorations high and out of reach. Get your cat used to ignoring decorations by playing with her and her favourite toys and games around the tree, keeping her attention on safe, tested and familiar objects. Avoid using potentially hazardous materials like glass decorations, and tape wires down or keep them behind furniture. Pine needles are slightly toxic to cats, as are many Christmas favourites such as holly and mistletoe, so discourage them if they look like they want to chew or play with it. Candles are another one to watch out for. Your cat might ignore fire, but could still mistakenly knock something over!
Even if you don’t have an anxious cat, there are other hazards to watch out for when there are lots of new people around. Make sure no-one is feeding your cat any nibbles or leftovers. Let everybody know that your cat has their own meal times and specific food and even if they look interested in the appetisers served, your cat shouldn’t be offered them. Too much of food designed for us can cause illnesses such as vomiting or diarrhoea, and chicken bones can be a choking hazard and may require an emergency visit to the vet.
Most cats are more than capable of looking after themselves and, whether yours is happy to stretch out by the fire and be the centre of attention or you have a nervous cat who prefers to leave the room, check on his/her from time to time to make sure he/she isn’t becoming spooked by the hustle and bustle and has everything he/she needs. He/She will need to be stimulated at least from time to time, as he/she would be when you are at home, as he/she is used to that routine.
Christmas
Christmas Trees etc
Are Christmas Trees Poisonous to Cats & Dogs?
You may be eager to start getting your home ready for the holiday season, but are your plans cat-friendly? The sights, scents and sounds of the holiday season can be tempting to our curious felines. Cats love to explore novel objects in the environment, especially those that are shiny or stringy. They may be attracted to the smells of holiday meals cooking or scared by the sounds of parties and events.
Kittens and young or playful cats are at the greatest risk of injury due to holiday decorations. Senior cats may be more prone to stress-induced illness when there is too much chaos going on in your home. Fortunately, you can still enjoy holiday celebrations while protecting your cat. Follow these tips to keep your cat safe from holiday dangers.
Many people are aware that certain holiday plants, such as Mistletoe and Holly, are poisonous to pets, but what about the most common holiday "plant," the Christmas tree? We worry about pets tipping the tree overor tearing open the presents, but what about those pets who chose to eat the tree?
Christmas can be a scary time for pets, especially cats who can't resist the tree and other holiday plants, many of which are poisonous. Toxicity of holiday plants varies from mild to extreme. The level of poisoning (illness) is also related to the amount of the plant ingested.
Imagine your cat's excitement when he or she sees a huge tree covered in what looks like cat toys.
Unfortunately, Christmas trees can be dangerous to cats.
Christmas trees are considered to be mildly toxic. The fir tree oils can be irritating to the mouth and stomach, causing excessive drooling or vomiting. The tree needles are not easily digested either; possibly causing GI irritation, vomiting, gastrointestinal obstruction or puncture.
· Tree water may contain pesticides, fertilizer, and even aspirin or other chemicals. Drinking this water can cause poisoning in cats. Keep tree water covered to prevent drinking; aluminum foil is a good option.
· Chewing or ingesting ornaments, decorations or artificial tree parts (live or artificial) can cause GI obstruction.
· Cats can damage trees by climbing them and potentially knocking them over, resulting in injuries to themselves or others.
Keep fragile ornaments and dangerous decorations out of reach when decorating your tree. If your cat still can't seem to resist the tree, you may need to keep your cat away from this area when you are not home. Consider putting up the Christmas tree in a room that can easily be closed off.
Even though the question refers to "live" trees, artificial trees, are also dangerous when eaten. The principal things to worry about are toxin release from the artificial material and intestinal obstruction (not digestible).
As noted earlier, the amount of trouble depends on how much is consumed. Many times, pets don't consume mass quantities of tree material.
I would recommend confining your pets away from the tree when you are not home. This will allow you to be able to "supervise" any tree or plant-eating activity. Other plants, such as Mistletoe and Holly are also poisonous.
If your pet has chewed on the Christmas tree or other plants, monitor for any changes in behavior (excessive licking, salivating), appetite, activity, water consumption, vomiting, and diarrhea.
While we are on the subject of Christmas trees, also consider the tree water. Preservatives, pesticides, fertilizers and other agents, such as aspirin, are commonly used in the tree water to keep the tree fresh. These may have harmful or deadly consequences for cats and dogs (and children) who drink the water! A covered tree water dish is the safest.
Holiday Plants
Flowers and Plants
Holiday plants that are used as decoration and those given as gifts may pose threats to your pets, ranging from mild to severe toxicity potential. Learn more about toxic holiday plants. Holiday plants and flowers can look nice in your home, but they can also attract a curious feline. At the very least, your cat may cause damage by chewing leaves, knocking over pots or vases, or even using the soil as a litter box! Unfortunately, nibbling plants and flowers could send your cat to the emergency vet.
Poinsettias are known for their toxicity to cats, but they tend to have only mildly toxic effects. Holly and mistletoe are more dangerous if ingested. Flowers such as lilies and amaryllis are especially dangerous. It's best to completely keep toxic plants and flowers out of your home. Choose non-toxic plants or use silk flowers instead.
Electrical Cords
To your cat, an extension cord might look like just another string to play with. String lights may be even more tempting since they sparkle. If your cat tries to play with or chew on electrical cords, she could end up getting burned or electrocuted. Hang lights out of reach of your cat and secure loose cords so they don't dangle or slide on the floor.
Christmas lights on the tree and elsewhere in the home also pose a hazard to curious pets. Chewing on cords and lights will cause electric shocks and burns in the mouth. Check cords regularly for signs of chewing and general wear and tear.
If you notice that your pet is reluctant to eat, drooling or showing signs of a painful mouth (i.e. not wanting to play with regular toys), be sure to rule out electrical burns in addition to dental and other diseases.
Candles and Fireplaces
The warmth of a candle or fireplace is like a dream come true for most cats. However, some cats (especially kittens) may get too close to stay safe. Your cat may singe her whiskers if she explores too closely. You cat can also knock over a candle and cause a fire.
Always keep candles out of reach of your cat. Never leave candles or fireplaces burning unsupervised. Use a fireplace shield/guard to prevent your cat from getting too close to the flames or metal parts of the hearth that can burn tender paws.
Ribbons and Tinsel
Many cats are unable to resist something shiny or sparkly. Tons of cats go nuts for strings and ribbons. It's only natural that your cat will want to play with decorations and gift wrap accessories like ribbons, bows, string, tinsel, etc. The danger in this is that string-like materials can cause a dangerous linear foreign body obstruction that requires surgery.
Avoid using loose tinsel or other string-like materials and opt for safer items. You can decorate gifts with paper bows or thicker cloth ribbons. Use garland made from beads or thick cloth ribbons to decorate your tree and home. Tinsel garland that does not contain long strings may be safe, but hang it out of reach just to be safe. Ornaments also pose a risk. Ingestion of ornaments can cause gastrointestinal blockage or rupture. Depending on what materials were used to make the ornament, toxicity may result if ingested.
Human Food
The aroma of holiday cooking can attract cats, especially if you are making a juicy roast. You may want to give your cat an extra treat during the holidays, and that's not necessarily a bad thing. Just make sure to avoid foods that can make your cat sick. Most cats are not interested in eating toxic foods like onions, chocolate, and avocados. However, they may crave a dish that contains these ingredients. In addition, your cat can develop vomiting or diarrhea after consuming rich, fatty foods. High sodium foods can cause health problems as well. Dairy products may cause diarrhea (vets estimate that about half of cats are lactose intolerant).
While it's okay to offer a little sliver of lean meat, avoid letting your cat feast on the pan drippings, drink the gravy or eat the whipped cream off your leftover pie. Make sure treats make up no more than 10% of your cat's daily food intake. If you think your cat has consumed a poisonous food, contact your veterinarian
Cats as Gifts
Giving someone a cat or kitten as a gift may seem like a sweet gesture, but it's actually a bad idea. Cats given to children may be forgotten once the holiday season passes and the novelty wears off. Giving a cat to an adult is asking quite a lot. Are you sure the person wants to take on the responsibility of cat ownership? What if the person wanted to choose their own cat?
Becoming a cat owner is a serious step for both children and adults. Be sure the recipient is ready for the commitment before you give the gift.
Better yet, give a cat collar or toy as a gift and tell the recipient that you will go together to purchase/adopt a cat after the holidays are over.
Be careful and have a safe and happy holiday season!
& remember!
Most of all
Love Your Kitten - Cat
Love your kitten - cat and treat it well.
Give it plenty of kindness and affection and love and you will be rewarded with a loyal companion for many years to come.
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